Things have definitely changed. You can't do anything but hike on the specified trails. You can hardly breathe with all the tourists. It's definately not so bad in the Spring or the Fall which is when I would recommend going. For many years I never took my kids there because I knew it had changed so much, but we did go in 2009. We did three trails. The Emerald Pool Trail, The River Walk Trail and another day we did the Canyon Overlook trail. It is still one of the most beautiful places on earth.
The Emerald Pool Trail
Ya, we took a bunch of kids. The more the merrier I say
The River Walk Trail
The shuttle buses were new to me
The Canyon Overlook Trail
On the way back down the switchbacks from the Canyon Overlook trail we stopped and went swimming in a water hole that I didn't know about but my siblings did. Other people came but not a lot. It was fun for the kids. They went polliwog and baby frog hunting
We saw this bull in Springdale. He was pretty forbidding
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